Wave Decay and Its Characteristics in Surf Zone

In accordance with the similarity between breaking waves and hydraulic jumps, the expressions for estimating wave decay and wave energy dissipation in the surf zone are derived based on the fundamental equations of fluid mechanics. Using the numerical solution of cnoidal wave theory, the various kinematic properties of waves in the surf zone, including the relative wave crest height, wave energy, and radiation stress are discussed. The values calculated with the method proposed in this paper are in good agreement with the experimental data gained by other researchers. The present expressions can be used in the studies of sediment transport on gently sloping beaches, especially on muddy beaches.     

棉兰老涡旋的数值模拟

用一个水平分辨率比较高的非线性正压模式,对热带西太平洋海域里的海流进行了数值模拟。计算海流与观测结果颇相一致。结果表明:赤道以北、棉兰老岛以东附近海域中,棉兰老冷涡在一年的大部分时间里都得到发展,但是其范围、强度和中心位置在各个月份并不相同,显示出很强的季节变化;在哈马黑拉岛东北海域,6月份突然出现了一个反气旋式的涡旋;这个涡旋8月份发展得最强,一直持续到10月份,在11月份就消亡了。     

THE VERTICAL MIGRATION OF DIATOM IN LITTORAL OF XIBIAN AND XIAO''AO

The vertical migration of diatoms in mud-flats was studied in littoral of Xibian, Longhai County and Xiao'ao, Lianjiang County, the dominant species being Gyrosigma spencerii and Hantzschia virgata respectively. Both light and tide are important factors affecting the vertical migration of diatoms. With the advent of tide, the diatom community disappears from the surface. It reappears gradually when exposed to light. In the dark, the diatoms never appear in great quantity on the surface in laboratory or in littoral. Whether in the light or in the dark, the diatoms aggregate in maximum numbers in the upper 2 mm of the sediment. But when the tide has covered the sediments for 4 hr, Hantz. virgata penetrates the mud down to a depth of 14 mm, Gy. spencerii, 12 mm. We have found that Gy. spencerii posseses phototaxis, but no tide rhythm and no day-night rhythm in our laboratory.     

流场散度的误差估计

按照误差传递原理,推导出流场散度的误差估计式,并将其应用于赤道中东太平洋上升流区域水平散度误差的估计。应用结果表明:赤道中东太平洋上升流区多年平均流场的散度稳定,平均散度约为3.0×10-7s-1;和通常采用的误差估计公式相比,该估计公式降低了散度误差,从而提高了散度的可信度。     

卫星海洋遥感的发展和预报中心遥感应用

本文简要介绍了卫星海洋遥感的发展情况和可获得的海洋气象观测数据,介绍了预报中心卫星遥感的发展历史和现今状况,以及为海洋环境监测和预报提供的海洋遥感信息产品,并给出了部分产品示例.     

凡纳滨对虾生物学及养殖生态学研究进展

凡纳滨对虾原产于太平洋沿岸水域秘鲁北部至墨西哥桑诺拉一带。1988年由张伟权教授引进我国。本文对国内外凡纳滨对虾生物学及养殖生态学的研究进行了总结，提出了凡纳滨对虾养殖生态学今后研究的方向。     

A New Pursuit Mode of Nonlinear Wave Surface

The numerical mode of nonlinear wave transformation based on both the Laplace equation for water field and the Bemoulli equation for water surface is a kind of time-domain boundary problem with initial conditions. And the basis for establishing the numerical mode of nonlinear wave in time domain is to trace the position of wave free surface and to calculale the instantaneous surface height and surface potential function. This paper firstly utilizes the ‘0-1‘ combined BEM to separate the boundary by means of discretization of Green‘ s integral equation based on the Laplace equation, then separates the free surface of wave with FEM and derives the FEM equation of wave surface that satisfies the nonlinear boundary conditions. By jointly solving the above BEM and FEM equations, the wave potential and surface height could be obtained with iteration in time domain. Thus a new kind of nonlinear numerical mode is established for calculating wave transformation. The wave test in the numerical wave tank shows that the numerical simulation with this mode is of high accuracy.     

Characteristics of Scour and Deposition in Front of Breakwaters Under Irregular Broken Clapotis

First the scour and deposition patterns of the sandy seabed in front of a vertical breakwater under the action of irregular broken clapotis are investigated experimentally and classified into five types: scour type Ⅰ , scour type Ⅱ, scour type Ⅲ, deposition type Ⅰ, and deposition type Ⅱ . Secondly, the processes of formation of scour and deposition patterns are probed in comparison with those induced by regular broken clapotis and standing waves. Thirdly, the criteria for distinguishing scour and deposition patterns under irregular broken clapotis are presented.     

Modeling of Multi-Freedom Ship Motions in Irregular Waves with Fuzzy Neural Networks

1 .IntroductionAshiptravelingatseaundergoesundesirablewave inducedmotions ,namely ,surge ,sway ,heav ing ,rolling ,pitchingandyaw .Thesemotionsoftencauseproblemstothecrew ,theonboardequip mentand ,intheworstcase ,thesafetyofthevessel.Tominimizethewave inducedshipmotions ,controlsystemsmaybeapplied .Theaccuratemodelingofshipmotionsisthereforeveryimportantforshipdesignanddesignofmotioncontrolsystems .Manyresearchershavedevelopedshipmotionpredictionmethodsbasedonthepotentialflowtheo ries (Dong ,…     

Modal Wave Number Tomography for South China Sea Front

1 .IntroductionTheSouthChinaSealiestothesoutheastpartoftheChinesecontinent.TheKuroshioflowsbytheeastsideoftheLuzonStraitfromsouthtonorthinwinter ,spring ,andautumn .TheKuroshioaf fectsnearcurrentfieldsandtemperaturefields,changingtheoceanenvironmentparametersandsoundpropagation .Thus ,theoceanacoustictomographytechniqueisofpotentialtolong term ,largescalemonitoringoftheocean .Themodalwavenumbertomographymethod (Rajanetal.,1 987;Frisketal.,1 989)isusedtoobtainthesoundspeedprofileinwatercol…